The stitches below are of just a few of those which were used during the period covered by the SCA. The West Kingdom Needleworkers Guild is only suggesting these sites for your information. We do not endorse these sites, nor is the Guild in any way responsible for the content of these pages. It is better whenever possible to consult books on historic needlework and a Guild Mentor.
Whitework
We haven’t exhausted the search for web sites with useful information, this is just a start…
Whitework — drawn thread
Terminology used in books and by embroidery teachers is not always completely consistent. The terms “drawn thread” and “pulled thread” are often used to mean both types of work. In one, the embroidery stitches pull or draw threads together, leaving small holes in the fabric. In the other, specific groups of threads are snipped and actually pulled or withdrawn from the fabric and stitches are worked over the loose threads remaining in the weave.
How-To Stitch Sources
http://www.heritageshoppe.com/heritage/stitches/drawnthread.html
Information on Historical Techniques
Il Punto Antico/ Drawn-Thread Work
Maria Margheri Manetti , Libreria Editrice Fiorentina
http://www.florin.ms/puntoantico.html
some historical discussion, some illustrations of stitches, some photos of modern work
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Drawn_thread_work
General overview of drawn thread styles
Actual Historical Textiles and Patterns
Historically Inspired Patterns and Pieces
A Draw Thread Partlet
Baroness Briana Etain MacKorkhill
1545-Lace-Partlet-Documentation.pdf
Discussion of author’s project to create a partlet using drawn thread technique; includes photos of her work & paintings on which she based her work
I, Sheryl Knight, being known in the Society for Creative Anachronism, Inc., as Briana Etain MacKorkhill, do hereby grant to members of the Society for Creative Anachronism, Inc. permission to use in any SCA publication (either physical or electronic) any articles written by myself that are located on my webpage dealing with clothing, lace, pillows, SCA topics, etc. provided they are presented in their entirety and credit is given, retaining all other rights in the above-named works. I also grant permission to members of the Society for Creative Anachronism, Inc. to use/place copies of the aforementioned articles on SCA-related websites provided they are presented in their entirety and credit is given, retaining all other rights in the above-named works. I further grant permission to members of the Society for Creative Anachronism, Inc. to use physical copies of the aforementioned articles, to be passed out for reference/ consultation purposes, provided they are presented in their entirety and credit is given, retaining all other rights in the above-named works. The only other thing I ask, is that if an article is printed in a publication, please let me know how I can obtain or purchase a copy of the publication(s) for myself.
Briana Etain MacKorkhill
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Whitework — pulled thread
Terminology used in books and by embroidery teachers is not always completely consistent. The terms “drawn thread” and “pulled thread” are often used to mean both types of work. In one, the embroidery stitches pull or draw threads together, leaving small holes in the fabric. In the other, specific groups of threads are snipped and actually pulled or withdrawn from the fabric and stitches are worked over the loose threads remaining in the weave.
How-To Stitch Sources
Pulled Thread Stitches
http://www.fidella.com/webstitch/stitch08.html
diagrams of pulled thread stitches
An introduction to pulled thread embroidery
http://www.needlework-tips-and-techniques.com/pulled-thread-embroidery.html
basic information about the technique and a link to instructions on a few stitch examples.
General Information: Pulled Thread Stitches
[Searching]
what colors & fibers to use, tips on tension & starting and ending threads, other pointers, etc.
Information on Historical Techniques
Actual Historical Textiles and Patterns
Historically Inspired Patterns and Pieces
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Whitework — cutwork
How-To Stitch Sources
http://www.needlework-tips-and-techniques.com/cutwork-embroidery.html
General description & a few photos of basic cutwork techniques
Information on Historical Techniques
http://lace.lacefairy.com/ID/CutworkID.htmlhttp://www.white-works.com/cutwork_embroidery.htm
discussion of some different types of cutwork – again, not sure which are period?
Actual Historical Textiles and Patterns
by Matthio Pagano (1550)
http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books/ng1_lace.pdf
Period patterns for cutwork and reticella.
Historically Inspired Patterns and Pieces
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Whitework — Buratto work
How-To Stitch Sources
Information on Historical Techniques
An Historically/Medieval/Elizabethan Focused Needlework/Embroidery Blog
http://www.laren.blogspot.com/2006_03_01_laren_archive.html
Jane Stockton of Lochac talks about Gobelin stitch used as background for sweetbags (but no photos) Link no longer works, but check out her blog in general.
Actual Historical Textiles and Patterns
Length of Buratto Lace-17th Century
Costume/Textiles Collection at L.A. County Museum of Art
http://collectionsonline.lacma.org/mwebcgi/mweb.exe?request=record;id=53515;type=101
photo
Marla Mallett Textiles
http://www.marlamallett.com/l-other.htm
ecclesiastical piece, unknown date
http://www.marlamallett.com/l-3006ds.htm
closeup photo
Historically Inspired Patterns and Pieces
piece of Buratto stitched by Mistress Keridwen the Mouse (halfway down page)
Pattern from the reproduction pattern book: Vinciolo, Federico, (1971), Renaissance Patterns for Lace, Embroidery and Needlepoint (An Unabridged Facsimile of the ?Singuliers et Nouveaux Pourtraicts? of 1587
http://www.sca.org.au/broiderers/newsletters/springcoronet00.html
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Whitework — Reticella or Italian cutwork
How-To Stitch Sources
Overview, Instructions & Basic Bookmark
Information on Historical Techniques
www.white-works.com
http://www.white-works.com/reticella.htm
Basic description & a couple photos
Reticella: a walk through the beginnings of Lace
(through Sabrina de la Bere’s personal site)
http://www.bayrose.org/AandS/handouts/reticella_rev.pdf
Actual Historical Textiles and Patterns
Giardinetto novo di punti tagliati et gropposi per exercito e ornamento delle donne, by Matthio Pagano (1550)
Period patterns for cutwork and reticella.
http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books/ng1_lace.pdf
#5931 – Whitework Reticella Sampler
Mid-to-Late 17th-Century (just out of Period)
http://needleworkantiques.com/sampler_gallery_-_page_11.html
sampler is circa mid to late 17th century. including surface embroidery, pulled work, reticella, bullion knots, double running stitch and lots of complex satin stitch.patterns.
Musterbuch für Stickereien und Spitzen by Elisabetta Parasole (1616)
http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books/pe3_lace_2.pdf
patterns for punto in aria, recticella, and a couple other types
Historically Inspired Patterns and Pieces
A Needlelace Handkerchief
Caryl de Trecesson (Carol Hanson)
http://www.dragonbear.com/as-hanky.html
The center is a reticella needlelace surrounded by a drawn thread border; The edging is an attached punto-in-aria.
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Whitework — other
Information on Historical Techniques
Needle-made Lace Before 1600 (from SCA/Lochac newsletter)
by Keridwen the Mouse.
http://www.sca.org.au/broiderers/newsletters/needlelace.html
Actual Historical Textiles and Patterns
Metropolitan Museum of Art
Works of Art: Antonio Ratti Textile Center
http://www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/viewOne.asp?dep=20&viewmode=0&item=29.87
Christ in Judgement and others, Altarcloth, second half of 14th century
Sophia, Hadewigis, and Lucardis
German; Germany
Linen embroidered with satin, chain, chevron, and Roumanian stiches;
Extanct Camicie from Binney, Florence – 16th Century
From the Realm of Venus website
http://realmofvenus.renaissanceitaly.net/workbox/extcam.htm
several extant Italian camicias (chemises) with a variety of whitework styles (Reticello, Drawn, Buratto?)
La vera perfezione del disegno di Giovanni Ostaus (1561)
Patterns for embroidery and lacemaking .
http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books/og_lace.pdf
Les Singvliers Et Novveaux Povrtraicts: Vinciolo
Lace-making and needlework were popular activities all over Europe when this book was published. Vinciolo, the author of this book, was from Venice, but lived in France, and produced laces for the French court. The 1606 book is the 3rd printing of an edition first printed in 1587.
http://www.pbm.com/~lindahl/vinciolo/
Musterbuch für Stickereien und Spitzen by Elisabetta Parasole (1616)
Patterns for embroidery and lacemaking .
http://www.cs.arizona.edu/patterns/weaving/books/pe3_lace_1.pdf